Preserved Lemons
get that dusty jar out and let's cook
Hello,
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ABOUT Preserved Lemons
What are preserved lemons? In essence, they’re a pickle. Usually, you can either find them whole, halved or quartered. They are packed in salt and water or extra lemon juice. During the process the skin and the pith break down and become extra soft, falling apart with a gentle touch (like a damsel in distress).
What do they taste like? If you’ve never tried a preserved lemon before you’ll be surprised at how it’s simultaneously intense and mellow, packed with lemon flavour. It doesn’t have the sharpness and zing of the fresh lemon but it has the intensity of the lemon flavour. It’s like a lemon that was resting under a weighted blanket for a month; it comes all soft and squishy and relaxed.
Can they be substituted? Not quite, the flavour is unique and impossible to replicate. Some people suggest adding lemon zest and salt in place of a preserved lemon but I don’t believe it provides the same intensity and umami richness. But the good news is, once you open the jar they will last quite a while in your fridge and hopefully after reading this issue, you’ll be using up your jar in no time.
History of the ingredient
Preserved lemons are common in North African, South Asian and Middle Eastern cooking. Preserving has always been an affordable way to prolong the life of seasonal ingredients. Even though we associate preserved lemons with flavours that aren’t part of Western cooking, it’s worth noting that English cookery books from the 1800’s mention preserved lemons. Lemons made their way to England in the 1400’s but it’s only in the 1700’s when the orangeries were being built (by very well-off people) to protect this heat-loving plant. So even in the 1800’s and early 20th century, lemons were a luxury and a novelty.
In Cambodia, it is common to include whole preserved lemons in a soup known as ngam nguv. In other countries, limes are used for a similar purpose; a Vietnamese version is called chanh muoi. Additionally, chanh muoi is often used to create a refreshing beverage resembling a tangy-sweet lemonade by combining it with sugar, water or sparkling water.
Despite easy access to fresh lemons all over the world these days, it’s clear that everyone is embracing the intensity and versatility of preserved lemons.
QUICK SUGGESTIONS FOR USE:
When I got my first jar of preserved lemon, it was stuck at the back of my fridge for nearly a year. I used them for a recipe (yes, probably Ottolenghi) and then considered them to be too intense and too much to be used for anything else. But now I know that there are SO many uses. A jar doesn’t last particularly long!
Preserved lemons pair well with all proteins, go beautifully with all types of chilli, as well as work really well swirled through salads and grains. You can also get preserved lemon paste which might make it a little more convenient for some recipes.
Savoury
Always remember, a little goes a long way. Preserved lemons are packed with flavour and you won’t need a lot to add flavour and depth to your dishes.
Make a really good tagine (I know, I know, so obvious)
Serving charcuterie at home? Add some thinly sliced preserved lemons to go along with other pickles. And if you’re not serving pickles with your charcuteries and cheese boards, why aren’t you?
Make this zingy salad dressing for the warmer weather
Compound butter - blitz a lemon, add some butter. Use that butter for your white and fleshy proteins - fish, chicken, stuff it under chicken skin for extra oomph.
I promised to sneak in a popcorn recipe into every issue (a true effort for someone who doesn’t even like popcorn). This recipe calls for lemon butter, but you know better than just adding some lemon zest to your butter. You know what to do, live your best life.
If you are making a hearty, wintery stew, blitz up some lemons into a paste and add a bit to taste to spruce it up and balance out the flavour.
Crunchy, spicy, lemony pickled vegetables to top your salads, sandwiches and grains
If you’re a fan of game, then you should try pairing your next meal with preserved lemons.
Upgrade your aioli, chimichurri and pesto with addition of preserved lemon
I love pickles in my sandwiches and next time I’ll have some leftover roast lamb, I will be making a mega sandwich - packed with lamb meat, harissa mayo and yes, thinly sliced preserved lemons.
Use preserved lemons in chutneys, preserves and jams. It’ll pair well with other fruit and vegetables
If you love feta, feta loves preserved lemons. Whip them up together for a beautiful dip
Sweet
Think of a lemon loaf or any zesty dessert and introduce preserved lemons, you will only need a tiny amount and the best way to do it is by removing seeds and blitzing a lemon into a smooth paste.
Start with this Preserved Lemon Tea Cake
For a really refreshing summer treat - Preserved Lemon Ice Cream
If you’re using preserved lemon paste then you can swirl it through your creamy/yoghurty desserts or top your meringues for a depth of flavour
We’re still just about in the elderflower season, but if you have elderflower-flavoured preserves or cordials at home pair them with preserved lemon for a refreshing summer dessert
Nazim Lahbichi is clearly in the preserved lemon era, and I had to add a recipe for these preserved lemon bars
Drinks
And for the weekend - Preserved Lemon and Honey cocktail
Even more recipes to get creative with:
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN
All you need is lemons (duh), salt and time. And a thoroughly sterilised utensils. This reel from Nasim Lahbichi is very straightforward, if you want a deeper understanding, check out this article. And if you don’t fancy some of the additional flavours, you can omit the ingredient or replace them with something else.
WHERE TO BUY
Today, you can find a jar of Preserved Lemon in every supermarket, the most popular brands are Belazu and Odysea. But as always, my advice stands, explore your local Mediterranean deli. Not only you will grab a jar of great preserved lemons but you’ll likely discover new ingredients for your cooking adventures.
Something to watch: I’ve been enjoying ‘Best of Britain by the Sea’ with Grace Dent and Ainsley Harriot. I am drawn to water and it’s great to see the coastal U.K. being explored no matter the weather.
Cookbooks to explore: If you read the last issue on Za’atar, all the same suggestions still stand as the recipes in these books will utilise preserved lemons.
But for something extra, Niki Segnit’s new The Flavour Thesaurus- a plant-forward flavour bible.
Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons by Diana Henry, this book is brimming with flavours from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa
Something to read: I really enjoyed this piece by Aisha Abdel Gawad on her American husband meeting her Egyptian family for the first time. Food is, of course, involved.
Thank you for reading, do let me know how you get on with your preserved lemon adventures. I actually had to add a jar to my shopping list after putting this together.
Anya xx
Coming up next week: tonka beans - I am obsessed and I wish I discovered them sooner
Last year I accidentally adopted a few kilos of lemons from TooGoodToGo and attempted to pickle them myself but they turned out to be sooooo bitter =D Thank you for this article, I feel inspired to give it another go, now that I've discovered SO many new uses! Looking forward to the first virtual cooking class!