Za'atar

Sprinkle it on everything, everything....

Credit: eat kubba

Hello friends, 

My bid to stay consistent with Appetite writing has failed at the first hurdle. But I am sure most of you were busy working through your stashes of gochujang for the past few weeks. And now, it’s the perfect time to talk about the wonderful herb mix - za’atar. I think za’atar’s zing and greenness are the perfect accompaniment to all your spring dishes. 

ABOUT ZA’ATAR

What is Za’atar? Za’atar is a herb mix from the Middle East, the general mix is  dry oregano, thyme and/or marjoram, sumac and toasted sesame seeds. The ratio and the variation of herbs will vary based on different regions. 

What does it taste like? Due to the unique spice blend, it covers different notes - woodsy and floral from the oregano/thyme/marjoram mix, tangy and acidic from the addition of sumac and sesame seeds add a rich nutty note. Altogether, it’s a beautiful flavour that will work across many savoury dishes. 

Can it be substituted? Absolutely not. If I couldn’t get my hands on za’atar mix, I would maybe attempt making my own but it’s widely accessible these days, so you should never need to seek an alternative. 

History of the ingredient 

Za’atar is popular in many countries - Algeria, Armenia, Egypt, Iraq, Jordan, Libya, Morocco, Palestine, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Tunisia, and Turkey. But it’s most commonly used in Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel, and Palestine, each region has its own unique za’atar mix. The herb was also imported to North America by the migrant communities to continue the traditional making of the spice mix. . 

It’s important to note that the word is used to both describe the spice mix and the wild plant.

Za’atar plant (Origanum syriacum). Credit: David Bena

The mix sometimes contains salt, dried orange zest, dried dill, or the wild herb za'atar. The ratios and the ingredients of the mix vary slightly by region. Jordanian mix contains wild oregano, sumac, sesame seeds and salt. Syrian mix will often include coriander and cumin seeds, with sesame being swapped for crushed cashews and peanuts. Lebanese mix adds caraway or anise seed, resulting in a more intense flavour, sometimes also adding orange zest. 

In 1977, an Israeli law was passed listing za’atar as a protected species (due to its extinction). Food is always political, and it affected Arab citizens of Israel as they were the ones who picked the plant. Some individuals proclaimed the legislation as ‘’almost anti-Arab’’. In 2006, there were many za’atar plant confiscations at the Israeli checkpoints. 

Za’atar mix contains a herb mix that is known for its anti-inflammatory properties so sprinkle away it for good health. It’s believed to be good for your memory so the kids are often encouraged to have some at breakfast before school; and it’s good for your stomach (I guess all the fibre?).  

QUICK SUGGESTIONS FOR USE:

Za’atar works great as the main herb mix in many dishes, but it’s also great for final touches. Elevate your breads and flatbreads with za’atar, add to your salads, smother roasted veg and protein. It pairs well SO many things - garlic, fresh light herbs, lemon, toasted nuts, and various chilli types. To really make it sing, bloom it in hot oil and top your dishes with it. 

Savoury (thanks to pals who threw in their favourite recipe suggestions into the mix) 

• As I started working on this, this is the first dish that sprung to mind, incorporating some of my favourite things  - Za’atar Cacio E Pepe  

• Sprinkle on your eggs, legumes and creamy dairy

• Za’atar and feta flatbread via Claire Saffitz

• My friend Jen loves Ottolenghi’s Za’atar Chicken (scroll down the page for the recipe), and honestly, so do I. Get yourself a plump bird and you’ll have the easiest most flavoursome roast

• As we’re entering salad seasons, this is the time for za’atar to shine, use this as your starting point Smashed Cucumber w Feta 

• This one is for the bakers, Za’atar Croissants (and honestly, I want them RIGHT NOW) 

• Sohini swears by Za’atar Oil on top of a freshly baked focaccia. Make your own Za’atar Oil 

• I am a sucker for Panzanella and this one incorporates za’atar into the mix - Spring Panzanella with Za’atar Croutons 

• Alex raves about Sabrina Ghayour’s tomato sauce recipe that includes za’atar from this Mozzarella, Olive and Za’atar Pizzettes number  (can be applied universally to most tomato sauces) 

• Challenging myself to find a popcorn recipe for every issue - Za’atar, Aleppo and Maple popcorn 

• Do you know what’s going to be really great? Baby potatoes, boiled, lightly smashed, smothered in butter (oil for vegans) and sprinkled generously with za’atar. That’s the meal and I won’t take any counterarguments 

• Try Manakeesh (Mankosha/Manakish/Man'ousheh), a flatbread topped with za’atar and cheese. Popular in Lebanon and Palestine 

• If you love Tzatziki as much as Florence Pugh does, you are ought to try this twist on a classic

• Savoury cake? I am here for it, try this Za’atar cake packed with cheese  

• And one more potato recipe for the road - Za’atar Latkes 

Sweet 

I genuinely didn’t expect to find many sweet options for za’atar, but there are a couple and it totally makes sense. We add herbs and floral scents to the desserts, and sesame is no stranger to cakes and cookies.

• Plant-based Za’atar cookies 

• Go all out with this Za’atar Broiled Figs with Pecans and Goat Cheese Honey Ice Cream 

Drinks

• In Oman, a za’atar-infused tea is very popular. I can’t find any solid recipes to back this up and my gut feeling is that they infuse the fresh Za’atar herb rather than the herb mix

Even more recipes to get creative with:  

• Insanely Good Recipes 

• Bon Appetit 

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN: 

There are hundreds of variations on the mix, here are a few to choose from - this recipe that includes fresh thyme, or a more classic take here. I haven’t realised until now that some mixes include salt in them, make sure you check your label to avoid over/under seasoning. 

WHERE TO BUY: 

Absolutely anywhere these days, every supermarket stocks its own mix. I prefer going to non-high street supermarkets for my supplies - better value and quality. Find your local Turkish or Med deli and go nuts. Stock up on other herbs and spices while you’re there. 

And don’t forget, as with all herbs it will lose its’ freshness quite quickly, so store it in an airtight container, in a dark place and don’t save it for special occasions. A Monday is special enough. 

Something to watch:

• A Bite of China, thanks to a newsletter from Vittles I started watching this beautiful documentary on Prime. There’s no celebrity narrator and there are no fancy locations or fine dining. These are the stories of people that live in China, look into their every day (often gruelling) work, harvest and what they cook. Season 2 is available on Prime (bar the first episode)

Cookbooks to explore: 

• If you haven’t yet dived into the world of Sabrina Ghayour, then get in there. Each of her cookbooks contains recipes to use up za’atar. Feasts is my favourite, but choose your fighter - Sirocco, Persiana or Bazaar for an all veggie selection

• It’s no secret that Ottolenghi is no stranger to za’atar, treat yourself to OTK: Shelf Love, Ottolenghi: Simple or Ottolenghi The Cookbook (the OG) 

• Saffron in the Souks by John Gregory-Smith (thanks, Natalie!) features a selection of incredible recipes from Lebanon 

• Oklava by Selin Kiazim is brimming with wonderful Turkish-Cypriot recipes that will leave your mouth watering and will help you use up that za’atar stash 

• Cherish by Anne Shooter features a lot of great uses for za’atar and has a stack of traditional Jewish recipes. And yes, there is a recipe for latkes that you absolutely must make

Somethings to listen to

• I spent the past 6 days listening to nothing but Florence’s ‘Mermaids’. Prior to getting possessed though, I enjoyed a couple episodes of the new season of Dish - hosted by Angela Hartnett and Nick Grimshaw

Thank you for reading and if you have a suggestion for an ingredient, get in touch and please, tell your friends about Appetite. 

Anya xx 

Coming up next week: Preserved lemons - let’s travel to the Med and use up those colourful jars. 

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