Appetite: Sichuan Pepper
aka Chinese prickly ash aka Chinese pepper aka Mountain pepper aka Mala pepper
Hello hello,
Happy Sunday (or whichever day you’re reading this on). This week I took the decision to cancel paid subscriptions because it felt like immense pressure. Instead, I want to be creative and use my free time to do fun things, and let’s be honest for me it’s reading cookbooks and trying recipes that other people have already expertly developed.
So this week is all about Sichuan pepper. It’s been requested multiple times. I do think that it might not be in everyone’s cupboard BUT maybe this issue will be able to convenience you to get some and get cooking.
About Sichuan Pepper
What is Sichuan Pepper? Sichuan Pepper is a spice commonly used in Sichuan cuisine in China, and in Nepal. Despite its name, Sichuan pepper is not closely related to black pepper or chili peppers. It also has a lot of aliases that you might come across - Szechuan pepper, Szechwan pepper, Chinese prickly ash, Chinese pepper, Mountain pepper and mala pepper.
What does it taste like? Some link its scent to lavender, personally, I can’t smell it. And when it comes to palate, at first gives off a bitter note, followed by a numbing heat (not spicy though) and a hint of citrus. Most people associated it with numbness it creates in the mouth. The seeds (peppercorns) themselves are tasteless; it's the fragrant pink husks of the peppercorn that are used for cooking.
Can it be substituted? It depends on the recipe. In terms of flavour profile you can get quite close by mixing black peppercorns, coriander seed powder and lemon zest, but it won’t be as pungent as Sichuan Pepper. In terms of the mouth numbing sensation - it’s impossible to replicate.
History of the ingredient
Sichuan pepper originated in the land of Sichuan (easy!) and were enjoyed by the locals not just in their daily cooking but also in their tea and wine. The use of it in Chinese cuisine can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD). During this period, it became a crucial ingredient in the distinctive flavor profile of Sichuan dishes. As Sichuan cuisine gained popularity, especially during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1912) Dynasties, the use of Sichuan pepper spread to other regions of China.
Sichuan pepper played a significant role in the ancient spice trade along the historic Silk Road. It was highly sought after in various parts of Asia and beyond. The history of spice trade is fascinating and I always get excited to find out that particular spices were more valuable than others. Won’t be surprised if you’ll receive a whole issue on Silk Road trade some day.
In Chinese cooking there's a beautiful distinction made between the two elements of pepperiness: the numbing pungency ("ma") that sets the tongue and lips tingling, and the spicy heat ("la") more akin to the heat from a chilli. A crucial ingredient at the heart of Chinese cuisine, Szechuan pepper is usually more "ma" than "la"Marc Diacono, A Taste Of The Unexpected
For a little while Sichuan peppercorns were illegal in the U.S. (nothing as insane as Tonka Beans regulations). From 1968 to 2005, the FDA banned the import of Sichuan peppercorns because they were found to be capable of carrying citrus canker. Citrus Canker is not harmful to humans, but it does affects the vitality of citrus trees, causing leaves and fruit to drop prematurely.
Sichuan Pepper is often used in rituals and offerings, particularly during the Lunar New Year, as a representation of prosperity and good fortune.
In addition to its culinary use, Sichuan pepper has been an essential component of traditional Chinese medicine. It was often incorporated into herbal remedies to treat various ailments, including stomach issues, toothaches as well used as pain relief.
QUICK SUGGESTIONS FOR USE:
Thank you to Instagram hive mind, as always, for recipe suggestions. Without you this section would take a lot longer to complete or actually, a lot quicker because I wouldn’t be as excited to dig up some more info. Before we dive in though, Sichuan pepper pairs really well with so many things - spring onions, fresh ginger, soy sauce, garlic, star anise, chillies, fennel and cinnamon are just a few great pairings. And to get the most of our Sichuan Pepper, make sure you lightly toast it before using.
Savoury
A must-try Mapo Tofu
Make a mouth numbing zesty pangrattato to top your favourite pasta dishes, noodles or even salads. Fry off some breadcrumbs, add Sichuan pepper, some lemon zest and salt to taste.
Best ever snack - Mala Fried Peanuts
A weekend project or save it for Lunar New Year celebrations - Dumplings with Fragrant Sichuan Sauce
Mix some ground Sichuan peppers into your table salt, use as required
A great Smacked Cucumber
Upgrade your oils and make this Sichuan Infused Oil
I would eat these Sichuan Aubergines straight out of the pan
And when the temperature drops even further, invite some friends round for a Sichuan Hot Pot
Sichuan Pepper is one of the key ingredients in Chinese Five Spice mix, here’s a great guide recipe to make your own
Sichuan Pepper & Lime Popcorn (popcorn tradition continues)
A proper comfort meal - Sichuan Spicy Three Pepper Chicken
You can infuse honey with Sichuan Peppercorn to add a different flavour profile to your favourite dishes
Sweet
Unsurprisingly, it’s been adopted by chefs and cooks worldwide and made its way into sweet creations
They had me at Sesame Swirl in this ice cream
Drinks
For the cocktail hour, make this Sichuan Pepper Syrup
Try this Sichuan infused cocktail (tequila based)
For a refreshing beer drink, try this bad boy
And here are Sichuan Gin Sour and Whiskey Sour, plus another syrup infusion
And a spin on classic Negroni for me
Even more recipes to get creative with:
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN
So apparently, Sichuan Pepper isn’t picky about its climate conditions, so as long as you have a little bit of space, you can grow your own. More in this Guardian Article.
WHERE TO BUY
Anywhere. Supermarkets stock jars by popular brand, it’s really accessible. Make sure you buy the husks whole and grind at home. And to make sure you make the most of it, read the article on how to best grind Sichuan Pepper at home. If you want to look for different varieties, I strongly encourage you to find a local East Asian grocer. And if that’s not option, Sous Chef always has your back or try Wai Yee Hong, Bristol Based but delivers UK-wide.
Something to watch: I’ve been reminded that I have a few episodes of Searching for Italy left to watch, and if like me you need an escape from this August Autumn that we’re having then spending a few hours in the company of Tucci might be just the ticket
Cookbooks to explore: Fuchsia Dunlop has done YEARS of researching and cooking the food of the region and that’s why The Food of Sichuan should be on your wishlist
Something to read: Fieldwork by Iliana Regan, this is what I am going be racing to finish before my book club meets on Sunday. This is the second time we’re reading a book by Iliana. Her writing is vivid, transporting me into the woods, to her inn, foraging for mushrooms and berries being surrounded by wolves, squirrels, bugs and hummingbirds. If you want to escape for a few hours, pick this book. And this long read on Hot Peppers, Sichuan Cuisine and the Revolutions in Modern China (it’s an actual academic paper)
Have a great week and let me know if you have any requests for me. I have planned Appetite up until Christmas, but this schedule is flexible and it’s never too soon to start planning 2024.
Anya xx
Coming up next week: the frequently requested Gram Flour aka Chickpea Flour, flour almost always means cakes or pancakes so I am very excited